When it comes to sleeveless garments, the words gilet and vest are often used interchangeably. But while they may look similar at first glance, these two wardrobe staples have very different histories, functions, and style associations. Understanding the difference between a gilet and a vest not only helps you choose the right piece for the right occasion—it also elevates your style with greater intention.

In this article, we explore what defines a gilet versus a vest, their historical origins, how they’re worn, and why the distinction matters—especially in British and American fashion. Let’s dive into what sets them apart and where each one fits into a modern wardrobe.

What is a Gilet?

A gilet (pronounced jee-lay) is a sleeveless outerwear garment traditionally associated with European countrywear. Its origins trace back to the 16th century, when it began as a padded garment worn beneath armour. By the 19th century, it had evolved into a functional layer for hunting, riding, and outdoor pursuits—particularly in Britain and France.

Common Features of a Gilet

• Sleeveless, outerwear-style jacket

• Cut to the hip or slightly below

• Constructed from wool, tweed, quilted fabrics, or modern technical materials

• Offers warmth without restricting arm movement

• Designed to layer over shirts, jumpers, or even under a coat

The gilet became especially popular among the British landed gentry for its practicality and refined countryside aesthetic. Today, it remains a staple of British country fashion and is equally at home in both rural and urban wardrobes. Whether worn on the estate, at equestrian events, or layered in the city, the gilet balances tradition and versatility.

What is a Vest?

The term vest is more fluid and varies by region, which often leads to confusion.

• In British English, a vest refers to an undergarment—a lightweight, sleeveless cotton piece worn beneath shirts or knitwear.

• In American English, a vest is a tailored waistcoat, usually worn as part of a formal three-piece suit.

• In casual modern fashion, a vest can also mean a sleeveless top used for sport, gym wear, or summer style.

Common Features of a Vest (in casual use)

• Lightweight cotton or synthetic fabrics

• Sleeveless and close-fitting

• Worn for athletic activities, as an underlayer, or as part of a suit

• More about function or formality than warmth

This wide range of meanings makes it essential to consider context—both cultural and stylistic—when referring to a vest.

A Brief History of the Gilet and the Vest

Gilet Origins

The gilet emerged in the 16th century as part of European military dress, evolving by the 19th century into a key part of country sport attire. Its popularity soared in Britain, particularly among hunters, riders, and landowners who valued freedom of movement with warmth. As country fashion became more mainstream, the gilet adapted to modern needs without losing its heritage.

Vest Origins

The word vest comes from the Latin vestis (garment) and entered the English language in the 17th century. In 1666, King Charles II introduced the vest as a formal court garment. In Britain, the term later evolved to describe an undergarment, while in America it retained its meaning as a smart waistcoat. Today, "vest" spans a wide spectrum—from formal tailoring to athletic basics—depending on region and use.

Style and Function: When to Wear a Gilet vs. a Vest

When to Wear a Gilet

• Country pursuits: Perfect for shooting, riding, walking, or outdoor events

• Smart layering: Worn over a shirt or quarter-zip for a polished casual look

• Cold weather: Adds insulation under a jacket or coat

• Everyday wear: Ideal for transitional seasons as a jacket alternative

A gilet offers practical warmth with classic elegance—blending seamlessly into both fieldwear and city style.

When to Wear a Vest

• As sportswear: Gym sessions, running, and outdoor training

• As a base layer: Worn beneath shirts or knitwear in cooler months (UK)

• In formalwear: Part of a three-piece suit (US/waistcoat)

• Casual comfort: Sleeveless tops for relaxed summer outfits

The vest is more functionally diverse, depending on whether it's for sport, layering, or formal attire.

Fabric Matters: Gilet vs. Vest Materials

Fabric is a key differentiator between the two garments.

• Gilets are typically made from wool, tweed, quilted nylon, waxed cotton, or modern performance materials. These fabrics offer durability, insulation, and a refined aesthetic. For example, the Suffolk lambswool gilet by Lockwood Smocks offers breathable warmth and timeless country charm.

• Vests vary widely: cotton jersey or polyester for athletic vests, ribbed cotton for undergarments, and suiting fabrics like wool or silk blends for formal waistcoats.

This fabric difference reflects their distinct roles—gilets are outerwear, while vests are usually base or specialty layers.

Styling Tips: Gilet vs. Vest

How to Style a Gilet

• Pair a wool gilet with a checked shirt and chinos for a classic country look

• Layer a quilted gilet over a jumper for brisk autumn days

• Wear a technical gilet over performance wear for equestrian or outdoor sports

• Slip a slim gilet under a tailored coat to enhance your winter layering

How to Style a Vest

• In the UK, wear a cotton vest as a thermal base layer in colder weather

• In the US, wear a waistcoat as part of smart formalwear or with jeans for a tailored casual look

• For fitness, pair a sleeveless athletic vest with shorts or joggers

• For summer casual, wear a lightweight vest with jeans and trainers for easy comfort

Why the Gilet is a Modern Wardrobe Essential

While the term vest shifts across cultures and styles, the gilet has remained consistent in its purpose and elegance. It’s a garment that reflects heritage, craftsmanship, and versatility.

At Lockwood Smocks, every gilet is proudly 100% British-made, using premium fabrics and ethical production methods. Built to last and designed to layer, a quality gilet is a smart investment—both functional and stylish across seasons.

Final Thoughts

So, what’s the difference between a gilet and a vest?

• A gilet is a sleeveless outerwear piece, designed for warmth, mobility, and classic British styling.

• A vest can be a base layer, sports top, or formal waistcoat, depending on cultural context.

Knowing the difference helps you dress with greater intention. Whether you're heading outdoors, dressing smart, or simply layering for the season, choosing the right garment makes all the difference.

If you're looking to invest in outerwear that combines tradition, performance, and enduring style, the gilet is the clear winner.